Main Climbing Route: Because of numerous large crevasses that opened up during the 1997 – 1998 season, the traditional Main Summit route has become impassable. Currently the best way to reach the main summit is to follow the route outlined above. The route starts from a base camp situated in a moraine at the base of the North West. Ascend the southern ridge leaving camp to obtain the glacier 1/2 hour away. There is an obvious trail which leads out of base camp.
Once on the glacier skirt an ice fall on your left, and head for the saddle between the main summit and the south peak. Once the ice wall has been skirted turn back towards the main summit and follow the glacier to the left of the large rock wall. Continue towards the main summit cap avoiding the many crevasses. Careful route finding is needed through this area as the crevasses are numerous, large and deep. As the grade steepens head left for the triangular snow patch which leads onto the summit cap. This requires a steep 1/2 hour left traverse up and over a large open slot. Protection is a good idea.
Antisana – 5758 Meters
Additional Routes: East Peak, North Peak, South Peak, Northeast Peak
Suggested Reading: Climbing and Hiking in Ecuador, 4th Edition
You must contact the Delgado Famliy in Quito to obtain an entry permit. The cost is usually $10 per vehicle. Contact Mario Palleres 5932 455 697 for permit of entry. A four wheel drive vehicle will take you within 30 minutes of base camp. Drive through Pintag heading east towards Hacienda El Hato.
Just after a gravel mine at the foot of the 200 year old lava flow there is the first of two gates at which you must present your entry permit . You must keep your permit for the second gate further up the road. Take a left just after the entry gate and head east on a beautiful well paved road towards H. El Hato. Continue climbing on this road up into the paramo for at least an hour.
As the road levels and crosses a large paramo plain it will fork. Antisana will be directly in front of you, causing jaw dropping stares. Head left at the fork in the road and towards Antisanilla on your left and Antisana on your right. Shortly after this fork look for a 4 wheel drive track heading off into the paramo on your left. Take this poor road and be careful.
You will cross a series of up and downs and a few streams before leveling out at the base of Antisanilla. Continue on this track until you see a track heading east towards the mountain just after you have reached the base of Antisanilla. Turn right and follow this road up towards the mountain as far as you can. Basecamp is a 30 minute haul east from the end of this track. Look for cairns and a path up and to the right.