• Category Archives Climbing
  • Travel Advisory: Arequipa and Volcan Misti

    Arequipa is now probably the most dangerous city in Peru. We are receiving increasing reports of robberies; muggings are occuring in crowded streets in broad daylight and the police seem to be powerless. Our advice is take a taxi wherever possible. Climbers returning from El Misti have been subjected to armed hold-up and rape. Our advice is to hire an accredited guide before setting out.

    Challenge Trek To Summit Of Active Volcano – 1 Day Tour

    El Misti volcano (5825m) haves symmetrical cone of considerable scenic beauty, is located in southern Peru near of Arequipa city, the second largest city in the country, lies at the foot of El Misti in a fertile valley located 2400m above sea level. El Misti is a Quechua name, means the gentleman. El Misti volcano stands at 5825m and lies between the mountain Chachani (6075m) and the volcanoPichu Pichu (5669m), these impressive mountains, located northeast of Arequipa, are visible almost year-round, but especially during winter (April-December).
    Misti has been active numerous times since historic records began. The last strong eruption of Misti is thought to have occurred between 1438 and 1471. Many other eruptions have been reported since the mid-15th century affected Inca inhabitants living near the volcano. The last eruption of this volcano was in 1870. Also the archaeologist found several Inca mummies near the crater. Most of the city’s colonial buildings were constructed from El Misti’s white volcanic stone (sillar).

    DAY 1: AREQUIPA – CHIGUATA – MISTI BASE CAMP (4600M)

    At 8AM we pickup at hotel and travel 1 1/2 hours in our four wheels drives vehicle to the base of the volcano (3400M). We arrive at the West part of the base of Misti volcano.
    At 10AM arrival to Los Pastores (3400 meters above sea level) which is the maximum point for our four wheel drives and begins our ascent. This is six to eight hours to the Eagles Nest base camp (4800 meters above sea level). This is a hard day as we walk up the sandy and slippery trail. You need to be in good physical condition and acclimatized to the altitude.
    At 5PM arrival to our base camp, energetic dinner, set-up our tents and rest.

    TOUR ITINERARY OF HIKE AND CLIMB TO MISTI VOLCANO

    At 00:00HRS (midnight) you will collected from your hotel by experienced and certified mountain guide and 1 hour of travel in our 4×4 truck from the city to the trailhead (3400m), this is the highest point reached by the 4×4. Trek on stony path climbing through bushes and Andean tree forest as known Queñuales and Andean grass. This climbing will during the night following sandy path and sometimes will be necessary to climb small section of rock walls like 1 or 2 meters high.
    After 7-9 hours of hard climb you will arrive to the small crater of the Misti volcano (5730m), hike around the crater to see the deepest point of the volcano, you will appreciate volcanic activity of sulphuric gas coming out.
    After amazing break we continue climbing to the highest point of the volcano following a sulphur track, where is planted iron cross looking to Arequipa. The highest point of Misti volcano is above 5825m, 30 minutes for picture and spectacular views of volcanic and snow-capped range of south of Peru and the amazing view of Salinas lagoon.
    Fast downhill following a dark volcanic sand trail to meet our 4×4 truck located at the bottom of the volcano. Aboard the 4×4 and return to the hotel of Arequipa and end the service.
    Trek To Volcan Misti

    DAY 2: MISTI BASE CAMP (4600M) – ATTACK THE SUMMIT OF MISTI VOLCANO – DOWNHILL – AREQUIPA

    At 4AM following an early and healthy breakfast, we start to climb to the summit of the volcano. After four to six hours, we enter the snow area, depending on the season, and adjust our climbing equipment (crampons + ice axe – Snow season only). We will carry only what is needed for cold windy conditions, something to drink, some energy food, a first-aid kit and our mountain gear. The time of ascent will depend on the physical condition and acclimatization of each climber. This day we need to follow a vertical ascent (hard and freezing), to reach the cross at the summit (5825m). If the time permitting descend into the mayor crater from where is possible to see volcano activity or have a short walk over the top and around the biggest crater of this volcano. There is time for pictures and enjoying the landscape of all the highest mountains in this volcanic chain. At 12PM decent to our base camp. This will take approximately one hour.
    At 3PM arrival at the Base Camp, have lunch, pack up camp and descent to find our transportation waiting for us at the base of the volcano.
    At 4PM transfer back to Arequipa driving one and a half hours.

    NOT INCLUDED

    1. Travel insurance
    2. Soft drinks are okay but alcoholic drinks are prohibited
    3. Drinking water – 4 liters per person for all day
    4. Extra batteries for your headlamp
    5. Tip for guide and camp staff
    6. Wind proof jacket or wind proof pants (can be hired from our office of Arequipa $3 USD per day each thing)
    7. Water proof climbing boot (can be hired from our office of Arequipa $5 USD per day)

    WHAT YOU NEED TO BRING/CARRY

    1. Backpack 45Lt minimum
    2. Windproof jacket
    3. Strong comfortable and waterproof boots
    4. One complete change of clothing
    5. Headlamp and plenty of batteries
    6. Sweater and thermal pants and everything you can have to be warm
    7. 4 liters of water per person minimum
    8. Hat or cap and sun block to be protected from the strong sun
    9. Toilet paper
    10. Selection of small snacks, chocolate, dried fruit, biscuits, etc
    11. Camera, plenty of film and spare batteries
    12. Sunglass is strongly recommended to protect your eyes from the snow and sun
    13. Your personal medications

    PORTER SERVICE will cost $95 USD per day, to carry your personal items. You will need to carry with you a daypack with your Camera, bottle of water, snacks, a fleece or something warm and a poncho in case of rain (unlikely in Dry season but as a precaution) and anything you will need before lunch as porters do not walk alongside you. Your bag will be waiting for you in your tent at campsites. Please note there are fines if you give an excess of 18 kgs so try to underpack rather than overpack. You can hire a porter from Arequipa to carry your pack over the base camp.

    Also Read : South American Explorer articles on Judi Online Argentina 2018

    IMPORTANT BEFORE YOU BOOK A TREK TO EL MISTI VOLCANO

    PERU ADVENTURE TOURS as a certified tour operator never works as intermediarian or pass our customer to other local operator to develop this adventure – We sell our treks/tours/services and we develop them according our own logistics (transportation, guides, equipments, camp staff and others) without compromise with other tour companies – We really recommend to take lot care before you book a cheap trek to Volcan Misti with other “tour company” because easily they can cancel the depart if they don’t get more than 4 participants to make a group or they can change the date of your trek to join other later group or they will refund your money saying fake excuses to avoid any responsability as intermediarian.

    4×4 RESCUE EVACUATION SERVICE (Group & Semi-Private Service)

    This service is available at any time and for Group & Semi-Private Service for $105 USD for picking up from the base of the volcano and drop off at your hotel or near hospital – Normally this happen with people feeling high sickness or other accident on the mountain.
    Our tour price doesn’t include this service but easily can be covered by your travel insurance.
    The PRIVATE SERVICE already have included this service at any time.

    RAIN SEASON

    December to March. Some days blue sky with good conditions for trekking up to Misti volcano – During the rain season easily we can find lot snow close of the summit and for this section of the trail we need to use ice axe, crampons, rope and harness but everything depends how high is the snow up there – Of course we recommend to bring good rain gear as waterproof backpack and hiking boots, and others.

    BEST TIME TO CLIMB THE MISTI VOCANO

    April to December, on the rain season same days are with good weather (blue sky) permiting to climb this volcano. before to book your tour please see the weather report – Between June and September is the dry season in all the Andes and the coldest season during the night and we recommend to bring good sleeping bag to stay warm during the night.

    Anyone who becomes a victim should make a complaint (denuncia) to the police and also make a report at their Embassy.

    We would like to receive written reports from anyone that has been the subject of crime in Arequipa so that we can send documentary evidence to the appropriate authorities. Please send these either by e-mail to limaclub@terra.com.pe, by fax to (511)425-0142, or by letter to Casilla 3714, Lima 100, Peru.


  • Antisana Mountain Route

    Main Climbing Route: Because of numerous large crevasses that opened up during the 1997 – 1998 season, the traditional Main Summit route has become impassable. Currently the best way to reach the main summit is to follow the route outlined above. The route starts from a base camp situated in a moraine at the base of the North West. Ascend the southern ridge leaving camp to obtain the glacier 1/2 hour away. There is an obvious trail which leads out of base camp.

    Antisana Mountain

    Once on the glacier skirt an ice fall on your left, and head for the saddle between the main summit and the south peak. Once the ice wall has been skirted turn back towards the main summit and follow the glacier to the left of the large rock wall. Continue towards the main summit cap avoiding the many crevasses. Careful route finding is needed through this area as the crevasses are numerous, large and deep. As the grade steepens head left for the triangular snow patch which leads onto the summit cap. This requires a steep 1/2 hour left traverse up and over a large open slot. Protection is a good idea.

    Antisana – 5758 Meters

    Additional Routes: East Peak, North Peak, South Peak, Northeast Peak

    Suggested Reading: Climbing and Hiking in Ecuador, 4th Edition

    Getting There:
    You must contact the Delgado Famliy in Quito to obtain an entry permit. The cost is usually $10 per vehicle. Contact Mario Palleres 5932 455 697 for permit of entry. A four wheel drive vehicle will take you within 30 minutes of base camp. Drive through Pintag heading east towards Hacienda El Hato.

    Just after a gravel mine at the foot of the 200 year old lava flow there is the first of two gates at which you must present your entry permit . You must keep your permit for the second gate further up the road. Take a left just after the entry gate and head east on a beautiful well paved road towards H. El Hato. Continue climbing on this road up into the paramo for at least an hour.

    Also Read : Abandoned Spanish Castle in the Australian Rainforest

    As the road levels and crosses a large paramo plain it will fork. Antisana will be directly in front of you, causing jaw dropping stares. Head left at the fork in the road and towards Antisanilla on your left and Antisana on your right. Shortly after this fork look for a 4 wheel drive track heading off into the paramo on your left. Take this poor road and be careful.

    You will cross a series of up and downs and a few streams before leveling out at the base of Antisanilla. Continue on this track until you see a track heading east towards the mountain just after you have reached the base of Antisanilla. Turn right and follow this road up towards the mountain as far as you can. Basecamp is a 30 minute haul east from the end of this track. Look for cairns and a path up and to the right.


  • Overview of Routes

    Ruta Normal, The Normal Route. Approach from the Horcones Valley, through Northwest scree and snow slopes, up the west side to the summit. Challenging due to extreme weather conditions, especially freezing temperatures and winds. Suggested time needed, round-trip from North America: 3 weeks. Average climbing time: 11 days (3 to 14 days) from Plaza de Mulas, the standard base camp. Average descent time: 3 days to Puente del Inca. Not technically difficult. Zurbriggen’s route, 1897.

    Horcones Valley

    Ruta Glaciar de los Polacos, Relinchos Glacier, The Polish Route. Approach from Valle de las Vacas, through the northeast slopes to the East Face of the Glacier. Difficult. Requires crampons, ice axes, ropes. Suggested time needed, round-trip from North America: 4 weeks. Average climbing time: 15 days from Plaza Argentina. Average descent time: 5 days to Punta de Vacas. Polish Andes Expedition: S. Dasynski, K. Narkiewicz-Jodko, S. Osiecki, W. Ostrowski, 1934.

    Also Read ; Backpacking Guide for Beginners

    Cara Sur, The French Route, The South Face Route. Approach through the Horcones Inferior Valley, through very steep ice walls and exposed rock. Extremely difficult. French Expedition: A. Dagger, L. Berardini, E. Denis, P. Lesueur, G. Poulet, 1954.

    Other Routes:

    Newer routes tend to explore the South Face, which is broad and can be climbed in many ways. The West Face has only one route, with one variant that connects to it at 5800 m.

    Horcones Valley

    Filo Suroeste. Similar to the French Route, but approaches through the Horcones Valley to the southwest ridge. F. Grajales, F. Ibanez, F. and D. Marmillod, 1953.

    Ruta Agrentina. Runs through Valley of las Vacas to the southeast face. J. Jasson, E. Porcellana, G. Vieiro, 1966.

    Central Couloir. Runs between the French Route and the Ruta Argentina, 1966.

    Reinhold Messner. Soloed a direct finish to the French Route, 1974.

    Japanese Expedition. Another variation on the French Route on the South Face, 1981.


  • Aconcagua Climbing Information Packet

    The Aconcagua Climbing Information Packet covers

    • When to go
    • Weather
    • Routes
    • Health
    • Maps
    • Permits
    • Hotels
    • Guides and mules
    • Getting there
    • Day-by-day climbing reports from SAE members who have climbed Aconcagua
    • Equipment
    • Altitude sickness
    • Recommended reading.

    Want the Aconcagua Climbing Information Packet (Item #53)? Well, it’s $17.00 [Members $15.00] plus P&H. To order, fill out our on-line order form. This is a lengthy packet–we can’t e-mail this, so we’ll send it by regular mail.

    While not technical, Aconcagua is a highly underestimated climb. Traveling with Alpine Ascents and our nearly 30 years of experience, our knowledgeable, expert guides will greatly increase your chances of summiting and being safe on the mountain. Essential logistics like food prep, quality camps, porter options, and days on the mountain may seem like areas where you can “cut corners,” however we profess the importance of these details along with reasonable team sizes (many of our competitors end up combining teams and can have up to 20 people with just a few guides) are paramount to offering a superb experience.

    Over the last 25+ years we have developed a superb system on the mountain that affords you the best chance of proper acclimatization and summit success. Our Vacas Valley and Normal Route departures have numerous extra days built in to the itinerary, and we methodically ascend the mountain with renowned guide staff at the helm. With a seasonal location in Mendoza, we can respond to issues that arise quickly. A low climber-to-guide ratio offers us the ability to closely attend to climbers, which is important to success and safety.

    There may be many personal reasons to choose a particular guide service, but there are four main areas of concern that you should look at carefully: safety record, guides, in-country logistics, and pre-trip planning with the climber. In all four categories, Alpine Ascents ranks highest in the climbing industry. No other guide service has the safety record, quality of guides, finely honed programs, food, care, quality, and customer service that we offer.

    About South American Explorers

    Here are examples of what you’ll find in this information packet:

    Vacas Valley Route: This is the tried and true route that we have been offering since 1990. Quieter, more aesthetically pleasing, and a chance to traverse the mountain, this route employs three camps, and offers ample rest and extra days — Aconcagua at its finest. More about Vacas Valley Route

    Aconcagua Normal Route: This is a shorter and more direct route with lighter pack weight that builds porter support into the program (our Vacas Valley Route has porter options as well). This trip is competitively priced and includes acclimation days as well as a well-appointed Base Camp with less time on the higher mountain camps. More about Normal Route

    Aconcagua Climbing

    Overview of Route


  • 6 Best Destinations for Backpacker to Visit in South America

    Angel Falls – Venezuela

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    Settled inside Venezuela’s Canaima National Park, Angel Falls are the most elevated waterfalls on the planet.

    Albeit amazing, the climb into Angel Falls are by all account not the only reward. This wilderness trek is its own experience as a guide explores the fields, streams and mountains to uncover breathtaking waterfalls and tidal ponds.

    Explorers who overcome the trek profound into the wilderness are dealt with to tropical natural life in the zone including monkeys, harm bolt frogs and orchids.

     

    Torres del Paine – Chile

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    Torres del Paine National Park is situated in the Southern most district of Chile and for those ready to dare to Patagonia it offers bewildering climbing openings among ice sheets, lakes and blue mountains.

    Also Read: Top 5 Place to Visit in Peru

    Treks are accessible for differing knowledge levels on plainly stamped ways with alternatives for settlement and essential administrations. Those needing only an essence of its stunning perspectives can pick a day trip, while numerous others climb the prevalent five day “W” course. For the most daring, the full circuit can be finished 9 days.

     

    Salar de Uyuni – Bolivia

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    The world’s biggest salt level on the planet, salt and other copious minerals are looked for around there. Be that as it may, explorers know this zone as the world’s best photograph operation.

    Picture takers run here to catch the remarkable scene. Albeit dry season is prescribed for its boundless skyline point of view; the blustery season additionally gives Dali-propelled intelligent photographs that influence novice picture takers to look like experts.

    The salt pads are regularly part of a 3-4 day visit in Bolivia that guarantees to challenge desires and incorporate such strange stops as the Salt Hotel. This area learns about of this world.

     

    San Pedro de Atacama – Chile

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    San Pedro de Atacama used to be a goal while transporting dairy cattle and today has thrived into a noteworthy traveler goal.

    The star of the region is the Valle de Luna (Moon Valley) visit at nightfall. Explorers wonder as the leave transforms and gives an unspoiled setting to star looking.

    Be that as it may, the range has significantly more to offer with its perfectly hot, dry scenes that break the earth and hilly sand ridges. Visitors are taken by the town’s interesting appeal and frequently remain longer than anticipated for its many visit offerings of pits, gorge, holes, valleys and salt mines.